Not all screws look the same or serve the same purpose (although it would be much easier for us if they did).

When it comes to choosing the right screw for the task at hand, the type of thread it has is one of the most important factors. Why? The thread type affects how well it grips the material and how smoothly it drives into the surface.

Choose the wrong one, and you could end up with cracked surfaces and loose screws. Today, ASP will delve into the primary differences between fully threaded and partially threaded screws and when to use each one.

Whether you’re undertaking a DIY task or need to stock up your toolbox for work, we provide a range of high-quality, rust-resistant screws suitable for both outdoor applications and indoor assemblies. The best part? All of our prices start low. 

Quick pick

Do you want to skip the long-winded explanations? If you’re just looking for a straightforward answer to which type of thread you need for your job, then we’ve got you covered:

• Select a full-thread screw when you require maximum bite along the entire shank (e.g., fixing a thin sheet to timber or driving into plugs).
• Pick a part thread screw when you need to draw two pieces tight together (the plain shank under the head acts like a clamp and helps alignment; it’s better when issues like side-loading and shear occur).

What is a full-thread screw?

With a full-thread screw, the clue is in the name. The thread, or helical ridge, runs from the tip of the screw to the underside of the screw head.

Unlike a part-thread screw, which has a smooth section under the head, full-thread designs don’t have any plain shank at all, providing a precise drive into the material. That continuous thread provides maximum grip, helping to distribute the load easily and reducing the risk of loose installations.

For this reason, they’re mostly used for sheet materials, MDF, plywood, or fixing screws into plugs.

What is a part-thread screw?

Since we now know that full head screws have threads that run along the full length of the screw, you’d be correct to think that part-thread screws have threads that only run along half the length of a screw.

It consists of two main parts: a threaded portion at the tip and a smooth, unthreaded shank that extends up to the underside of the head. When driven into a surface, the plain shank helps the top piece of the material slide down without catching on threads.

The result includes a strong clamping action, as the screw draws the top layer tightly against the one below, creating a secure fit. That’s why partly threaded screws are popular for framing, decking, and joinery, since they pull two materials together tightly without a gap.

Grip vs clamp vs shear: what do they mean?

So, when it comes to choosing between a full thread or a part thread screw for your project, three main forces come into play: grip, clamp, and shear. Understanding what each one means and how to look out for them will make the final decision much easier!

Grip (pull-out resistance)

The grip of a screw is in reference to how well it attaches and stays in a material, such as installing a screw into a wooden table.

Full-thread screws often provide better grip, which is important for installations where a tight grip is necessary, since the thread runs along the entire length of the shank, spreading the load evenly.

This matters when you’re:

• Securing sheet materials where pull-out is the main risk
• Fixing into wall plugs in masonry
• Working with softer woods

Clamp (holding materials together)

When you hear the word clamp, it means how well a screw can hold two different pieces or materials together.

A part-thread screw is often the winner here, as the plain shank allows the top piece of material to slide freely as the screw is driven; the head bears down and pulls the top piece securely against the bottom.

This is especially helpful for:

• Joinery and carcassing, where gaps can weaken the joint
• Decking boards, as it reduces squeaks and movement
• Framing jobs where alignment is key

Shear (side-load strength)

When weight or pressure pushes sideways across the screw, shear force occurs.

For this, having a thicker core of metal where the highest stress occurs on the surface makes the screw less likely to snap or deform under load. That’s why part-thread screws perform better as it’s more resistant to bending.

Shear resistance is especially important in:

• Studwork and framing where screws take side pressure
• Outdoor frames, fences, and pergolas that are exposed to harsh winds
• Heavy-duty joinery, such as staircases or beams

Making a final decision

If you’re looking for something that aligns easily for applications where precision is needed, then part-thread screws are a go-to.

Many people use these for fixing a joist to a beam or assembling furniture, where accuracy matters, as the plain shank prevents the material from getting stuck while driving in. However, since part-thread screws come in a variety of thread lengths, the size of the screw matters.

All you need to ensure is that the threaded part of the screw passes into the second piece of the material all the way. Shorter screws may have a smaller threaded section, while longer screws often have a larger plain shank for clamping strength.

Full-thread screws, on the other hand, are perfect for thin or layered materials, such as screwing into cladding panels, or attaching sheet material to timber battens. The full thread design grips every layer it passes through for a secure hold, leaving no “dead space” in the joint.

These often have self-tapping or self-cutting tips for a quick installation, perfect for tasks that need to be completed swiftly.

Browse full and part thread screws at ASP today

No matter what type of thread, length, or screw you need for your next project, we’ve got it at ASP Ltd for prices you won’t be able to resist.

Our bulk screws are ideal for those who need to stock up for one or multiple projects in one go, with a selection of wood screws, concrete screws, chipboard screws, and plenty more to browse.

As a reliable UK screw supplier, we’ve been delivering long-lasting fixings to manufacturers and trade businesses since 1972, with specialist screws for every job.

Wood screws, concrete screws, and hammer fixings; it can be hard to keep on top of them all. But two screws that stand out for their efficiency and innovative design are the self-tapping and self-drilling screws.

While both screws look a lot alike (and they share similar names), they actually differ in terms of design and benefits. However, both are great tools for home DIYers and builders who are looking to streamline their projects.

Today, ASP will dive into the differences between each one, explain when to use each, and share practical tips so you can work smarter, not harder.

What are self-tapping screws?

Known for their small and trusty design, self-tapping screws have earned their reputation as the small heroes of the construction world.

While you still need to drill a pilot hole, most don’t require you to tap a thread beforehand; splitting and cracking are things of the past. Their sharp, tapered point is designed to pierce a surface with ease while cutting their own thread as they drive into the material for a clean, smooth finish.

The tip of a self-tapping screw can vary depending on the application:

• Thread-forming tips: push the material aside to form the thread, often used for softer materials like plastics or aluminium.
• Thread-cutting tips: cut away material to form the thread, which is better for harder materials or when you want a cleaner finish.

What are self-drilling screws?

Unlike self-tapping screws, self-drilling screws don’t actually require a pilot hole; they can pierce metal and hard surfaces with ease, creating their own hole for a secure and accurate fit.

Designed with a drill bit shaped into the point of the screw, the cutter allows these (often) tiny but robust screws to drill their own pilot hole, cut their threads, and secure the material, all in one go.

Sounds too good to be true? We promise it’s not! In fact, most builders, construction workers, and expert DIYers will have these screws in their toolbox, saving them a considerable amount of time during projects.

Self-drilling screws are often categorised by drill-point numbers, such as:

• #1–#3 tips: ideal for thinner gauge metals and softer materials.

• #4–#5 tips: designed for thicker metals, with #5 capable of penetrating up to around 12 mm (½ inch) of steel.

How do self-tapping and self-drilling screws differ?

So, what exactly makes self-tapping and self-drilling screws so different, apart from one needing a pilot hole and the other not?

1. The tip design

As we mentioned before, self-tapping screws have a sharp point in order to drive through the material, but they’re not as skilful as self-drilling screws (which don’t require a pilot hole).

Self-tapping screws then, come with either thread-forming tips, which displace material to create the thread, or thread-cutting tips, which act more like miniature taps, removing material to form cleaner threads.

These can also come in three different shapes: blunt, pointed, or flat. Thread-cutting screws feature pointed tips, while flat screw are thread-forming, which means they push the material outwards to form a thread profile.

Self-drilling screws tend to be thread-cutting rather than rolling, because the same action that drills the hole also needs to clear space for the threads to bite.

2. Compatible materials

While self-tapping and self-drilling screws can both be used for metal surfaces, self-tapping screws need a pilot hole to be drilled first (otherwise, it isn’t going in).

Due to the nature of self-tapping screws, they’re best used for softer metals, plastics, and wood, which don’t require as much force. They’re especially good for timber since they reduce splitting. Thread-rolling tips are ideal for plastics, as they compress the material rather than cutting it away, producing a firm, lasting fit.

On the other hand, self-drilling screws are designed for hard metals as they pierce the material with precision like no other. Their speed and efficiency make them perfect for attaching sheet metal to steel or aluminium frameworks, roofing and cladding sheets, or securing fixtures to light-gauge steel.

3. Speed vs. control

If you want something that is quick and easy, then self-drilling screws are perfect for you. Since no pilot hole is needed, this is typically the most popular choice for projects where time is of the essence.

However, if you want something more precise and controlled, then self-tapping screws are a better option. The pilot hole dictates the path of the screw, reducing the risk of it wandering or driving at an angle. Self-tapping screws only need to cut threads rather than drill through; driving torque is usually lower, which helps reduce stress on the material.

4. Typical uses

Self-drilling screws are commonly used for metal roofing and cladding to fasten sheets directly to purlins without pre-drilling and securing components in steel framing.

Since they provide such a fast installation, they’re also used for HVAC ducting and projects where builders need to attach metal to timber or plastic without separate drilling

While self-tapping screws are also often used for ducting and timber projects, unlike self-drilling screws, they come in handy for cladding and trimming jobs. It can also be used for junction boxes, pipe clips, or equipment housings.

Quick recap

Feature	Self-tapping screw	Self-drilling screw
Pilot hole needed?	yes	No, the scew drills one itself
Speed of installation	Slower than self-drilling, as it requires a pilot hole	Faster than self-tapping, as it’s a two-in-one process
Tip style	Sharp or blunt for cutting threads	Drill-bit shaped for drilling and tapping
Best for	Thin metals, plastics, timber	Metals, such as steel and aluminium

Are there any similarities?

It can be a bit confusing to understand at first, but all self-drilling screws are self-tapping, but not all self-tapping screws are self-drilling.

This is because self-drilling screws cut threads into the material as they go, making them a great option when time is of the essence.

Also, both self-drilling and self-tapping screws don’t require a mating component to work! Fewer fixings required, more time and money saved.

Choosing the right type for your project

So to sum up, choosing between self-tapping and self-drilling screws ultimately comes down to the nature of your project, the material, and the balance you need between speed, control, and strength.

When to choose self-tapping screws

• Projects involving timber, plastics, or thinner sheet metals, where pre-drilling holes for greater accuracy is essential.
• When precision is more important than speed, such as in joinery work, cabinetry, or detailed installations where alignment and finish matter.
• Situations where you want to protect delicate materials from splitting or cracking by controlling the diameter of the pilot hole.

When to choose self-drilling screws

• Structural and large-scale tasks that require hundreds of fixings, such as roofing, decking, subframes, or attaching steel to steel.
• For builders and contractors who need maximum efficiency, cutting out the pilot-hole stage without sacrificing holding strength.
• Heavier-duty applications involving steel or composite materials, where the drill-point design saves both time and tool wear.

Tip: If you’re unsure between self-tapping and self-drilling, start with self-drilling on metal-heavy or mixed connections for a quicker installation.

The right screws for your project are this way!

At ASP Ltd, we want to make sure you complete your project the right way: no cutting corners, no incompatible fixings.

Our bulk self-drilling screws are engineered to provide the holding strength and ease of use required on-site, as they drill, tap, and fasten in one go.

Rust is more than just an eyesore; it can eventually weaken and jeopardise the stability of your construction.  

A weakened screw will find it difficult to keep the structure together once rust has set in. This indicates that you will need to make expensive repairs or replacements. 

Choosing the right rust-resistant screw is essential. 

This guide will help you understand your options and select the best screw for your specific needs, ensuring durability and long-term performance. 

It doesn’t matter what type of project you’re taking on, using the correct rust-resistant screws will protect your investment and keep your project secure for years to come. 

What causes screws to rust?

Rust is simply a chemical reaction called oxidation. When metal is exposed to oxygen and moisture, it’ll begin to corrode. 

This corrosion will weaken the metal, which means you’re left with a material that’s flaking and will eventually deteriorate and fail. 

The rate at which rust forms is affected by environmental factors. Rainfall, chemicals, and humidity can all accelerate the rusting of metal. 

Types of screws that don’t rust 

The good news? Not all screws are created equal, especially when it comes to resisting rust. 

Here we look at the most common screw types that don’t rust (or are highly rust-resistant). 

Stainless steel screws 

Screws made of stainless steel are incredibly durable and resistant to corrosion. They are perfect for prolonged use in outdoor and damp conditions. In contrast to coated screws, the material’s natural resistance to corrosion means that it won’t erode over time. 

• A2 (304 Grade): These provide outstanding resistance to corrosion in a variety of applications. Ideal for the majority of outdoor projects, including garden furniture, fencing, and decking. 
• A4 (316 Marine Grade): Molybdenum is added for increased resistance to harsh chemicals and saltwater. 

Brass screws

Brass screws are perfect for indoor use because they are naturally non-corrosive and do not tarnish. The softer steel means that you should be careful when installing, as they’re more likely to snap. 

These are used for their strength and how they look when in place. 

Silicon Bronze screws 

Silicon bronze is highly corrosion-resistant, especially in marine environments. This copper-based alloy is tough, long-lasting, and resistant to both saltwater and chemical exposure. 

These screws are generally more expensive and are used in specialised applications due to their cost and performance. 

Coated screws 

Coated screws are made from standard steel but are covered with a protective layer to shield against moisture and oxidation. 

Types of coatings: 

• Zinc plated: A thin, economical layer for light-duty jobs, better suited to indoor or sheltered outdoor use. 
• Hot-dip galvanised: A thicker, more durable zinc coating ideal for prolonged outdoor exposure. 
• Ceramic coated: Offers strong rust resistance with additional protection against chemical and salt exposure. These are commonly used for construction and decking. 

When to use your rust-resistant screws 

Choosing the correct screw can have a significant impact on the project’s longevity and appearance, particularly in locations subjected to moisture, humidity, and challenging conditions. 

Here’s a quick guide so you know when to use your rust-resistant screws. 

Outdoor woodwork 

Projects like decking, fencing, and pergolas are constantly exposed to rain, temperature changes, and sometimes even salt-laden air. For these outdoor builds, stainless steel screws or ceramic-coated screws give the best protection. Or for covered outdoor spaces, hot-dip galvanised screws give you an affordable, rust-resistant substitute. 

Kitchens and bathrooms 

Indoor fixings might not have the same elements as outdoors, but high humidity and steam can still result in standard screws rusting in time. A2 stainless screws are best for long-term durability, but brass screws can also work where you want a certain finish. 

Electrical work 

Rust-resistant screws are vital for electrical installations, especially in damp or humid areas, to maintain safety and performance. 

Brass screws are commonly used as they have excellent conductivity and are resistant to corrosion. Use them in light switches, plug sockets, and internal fixings in potentially damp areas. 

Marine and coastal construction 

Salt air is one of the most aggressive corrosive forces on metal. For anything that’s built near or on the water, rust resistance is essential. A4 stainless steel or silicon bronze screws are best used in these applications. Use them for boat building, jetties, harbour-side structures, and coastal property maintenance. 

Garden furniture and landscaping 

Outdoor furniture and landscaping features need to stand up to weather conditions in the UK, from freezing icy winds to torrential downpours, we have a little bit of everything. Stainless steel screws are best used here, but ceramic-coated or galvanised screws can work just as well for budget-conscious outdoor projects. 

How to choose the right rust-resistant screw 

With so many options available, choosing the right rust-resistant screw can feel overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. The key is to match the screw’s properties to your environment and materials. 

This is what you need to consider: 

Understand the environment 

• Outdoor but sheltered? You might get by with a coated or galvanised screw. 
• Exposed to rain or frequent moisture? Stainless steel is a safer bet. 
• Near the sea or exposed to salt air? Only A4 stainless or silicon bronze will stand up long-term. 
• Indoor but humid? A2 Stainless offers great performance without over-specifying. 

Match the material

• Because stainless steel won’t react with tannings or preservatives, it’s perfect for softwoods and treated timber. 
• Select a sturdy screw, such as silicon bronze or A4 stainless steel, for hardwoods, especially if you plan to use it outdoors. 
• To prevent galvanic reactions, choose screws with compatible corrosion resistance for metal brackets or fixings. 

How to prevent rust on screws 

Even the best rust-resistant screws can still corrode over time if you don’t install them right or look after them in the long-term. 

Here’s how to keep your screws rust-free for as long as possible: 

1. Install with care 

• Pre-drill pilot holes to reduce stress on the screw and prevent wood from splitting, a must for hardwoods. 
• Use the correct screwdriver or driver bit to avoid stripping the head, which can expose raw metal. 
• Avoid overtightening, as this can crack coatings that protect the screw from moisture. 
• Take care not to scratch coated screws, even small abrasions can allow rust to take hold. 

2. Apply sealants or anti-corrosion products 

• Sealants or caulking can be used to help stop moisture from getting to the screw. 
• Anti-corrosion sprays or lubricants will create a protective barrier.
• Paint over the screws to give an added layer of protection. 

3. Perform regular maintenance 

• Inspect outdoor fixtures every now and then, tighten loose screws and replace any that are showing signs of rust. 
• Clean surfaces to remove dirt, salt, or debris that can trap moisture around screw heads. 
• Reapply anti-rust sprays annually in exposed areas to reinforce protection. 

When it comes to protecting your projects from rust, the small details, like choosing the right screws can make a big difference. Whether you’re working on a garden deck, a bathroom renovation, or a coastal construction project, selecting the correct rust-resistant screws will ensure your build lasts longer, looks better, and requires less maintenance over time. 

At ASP Ltd, we understand how important quality fixings are to the success of your work. That’s why we supply a wide range of corrosion-resistant screws to suit every environment and application. 

Still not sure which type of screw is right for your job? Our experts are here to help. Get in touch for tailored advice or explore our product range online to find the fixings for your next project. 

Even the most well-planned projects can have a small problem that could cost you in time, screws that are too long might not seem like much of an issue, but when they’re sticking out they can be a big problem. 

Knowing how to cut screws can help you save time and hassle, whether you’re fixing hardware, installing furniture, or working in tight spaces. 

Using the right tools is vital, and having the right technique can make all the difference, so here we share our guidance on how to cut screws, helping you to avoid the mistakes that are all too common in this area. 

Why might you need to cut screws? 

There are many scenarios where you might find yourself having to cut screws, they include: 

• Wrong length screws: You might only have longer screws available than the material depth you’re working with. 
• Preventing protrusion: Cutting a screw can help stop it from poking through the other side of a panel or surface. 
• Working in restricted spaces: Shorter screws might be needed if you’re working on tight cavities. 
• Reusing existing stock: Rather than buying new, it sometimes makes sense to modify what you already have and avoid waste. 

What tools do you need to cut screws? 

The great thing about cutting screws? Specialist equipment isn’t needed. However, the right tool can make the job a lot easier and more efficient. Here are the best options: 

Hacksaw 

Use a hacksaw for small jobs or one-off cuts. It’s a simple and inexpensive way to cut screws. What’s more, you have decent control. But be warned, if your screw is made from a harder metal, cutting can be slow and tiring. 

Bolt cutters 

Bolt cutters are ideal for cutting thicker screws or bolts. However, they can sometimes crush threads rather than slicing them cleanly, so you may need to apply some post-cut filling. 

Dremel or rotary tool 

A rotary tool that is fitted with a metal cutting disc is perfect for clean, precise cuts – especially when you have smaller screws or awkward locations. 

Angle grinder 

Angle grinders are powerful and fast, making it great for when you need to cut multiple screws quickly. This tool isn’t suited to delicate jobs or very small screws though. 

Screw cutting pliers 

Screw cutting pliers are designed to work on smaller machine screws and electrical screws. They’ll cut them cleanly and protect threads by keeping the screw in place as it’s cut. 

Bench vice or clamp 

Ok, so this isn’t a cutting tool, but they can be useful for keeping your screw firmly in place while you cut. A vice will keep your hands free and the screw stable. 

Step-by-step guide: How to cut screws safely 

Choose the right tool 

Think about the screw material, size, and your working environment. For most DIY and trade jobs, a rotary tool or hacksaw will suffice for handling typical wood screws or machine screws. 

Mark the cutting point

Use a pencil or marker to indicate exactly where you want to cut. Measure twice and cut once. 

Secure the screw firmly 

Always clamp the screw in a bench vice or locking pliers. This helps to stop it spinning or slipping as you cut. 

Cut slowly and evenly 

Apply steady, even pressure as you cut. Avoid forcing the tool, as this may heat the metal, which can lead to damaged threads. 

Smooth and clean the cut end 

Once cut, use a metal file or fine sandpaper to smooth sharp edges to help with installation, making it easier and safer. 

Test the fit 

Always check the trimmed screw in the intended location before installing it to ensure smooth threading. 

Quick reference: Which tool to use to cut your screws 

Tool	Best For	Caution
Hacksaw	Small, occasional cuts	Slow on hard metals
Bolt Cutters	Thicker screws/bolts	May deform threads
Dremel	Precision cuts	Requires a steady hand
Angle Grinder	Bulk cutting	Not for small screws
Screw Cutting Pliers	Electrical/machine screws	Limited to small sizes

Common screw materials and how they affect cutting 

When you’re cutting screws, the material they’re made from has a big impact on whether it’s an easy or difficult task. This is how the screw material affects the cutting process: 

Steel screws

Steel screws are used as they’re strong and durable. But obviously, when it comes to cutting they can be challenging. Using a hacksaw with a high-quality blade is best, but you’ll have to be patient and put plenty of effort into the cut. An angle grinder with a cutting disc will get you the cleanest cut. 

Stainless steel screws

Stainless steel screws are designed to be strong and corrosion-resistant, which means cutting them is challenging. To cut them effectively, power tools are best. Additionally, use cutting lubricants to reduce heat buildup and extend the life of your tools. 

Brass and aluminium screws

Brass and aluminium screws are softer and more malleable, which makes them relatively easy to cut. A standard hacksaw will get the job done with ease. When cutting brass, apply steady, consistent pressure to get a smooth cut. As aluminium is softer, it’s best to choose a blade with fewer teeth per inch, as it may clog up saw blades as it cuts so quickly. 

Coated screws

Coated screws have an added layer of protection against corrosion. Cutting these screws can compromise this coating, which may lead to rust or corrosion over time. To help stop this, touch up the cut ends with sealants or paints to restore their protective barrier. 

How to protect threads when cutting 

If you need a clean cut and want your screws to thread smoothly afterwards, a few simple tricks can make all the difference. Here’s how to protect your threads when cutting screws: 

• Thread a nut first: Before you cut, run a nut onto the screw, past the point where you plan to cut. Once cut, back the nut off to straighten any threads that may have shifted or been slightly deformed. It’s an old-school trick that’s still used for a reason – it works. 
• Tape it up: Wrap a layer of masking tape around the threads near your cut line. This helps reduce burring (tiny, rough edges left after cutting metal) and keeps fine metal shavings from clinging to the threads. Once you’re done, peel the tape off for a cleaner result. 
• Cut long, then file: Leave your cut just a little longer than needed, then use a metal file to smooth and finish the end. This helps to stop sharp edges and ensures your thread is still working as it should. 

Top safety tips when cutting screws 

• Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying metal fragments. 
• Use gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges and heat. 
• Work in a clear, well-lit space with good ventilation. 
• Allow cut screws to cool before handling. 
• Keep your cutting tools well-maintained and sharp. 

Can you still use the screw after cutting?

Yes, in most cases. As long as you cut carefully and clean the threads, screws should remain perfectly usable after being shortened. 

However, if you damage the threads during cutting, it might be hard to insert or tighten the screw. Using a thread file or running a matching nut over the cut end can help restore clean threads. 

Alternative solutions if cutting isn’t ideal 

Sometimes it’s just not ideal to cut a screw. If this is the case, you could try: 

• Use shorter screws if they are available. 
• Add washers or spacers to take up the excess length. 
• Countersinking or pre-drilling deeper pilot holes where the material allows. 

Choosing the right screw length from the start

Cutting screws is a handy trick, but let’s be honest, it’s even better if you don’t have to cut them at all. Here’s how to pick the right length from the start: 

• Measure twice, screw once: Start by adding up the material thickness and the depth of any pilot holes you’re drilling. This helps ensure the screw anchors securely without poking out the other side. 
• Don’t forget countersinking: If your project involves countersinking (where the screw head sits flush or slightly below the surface), remember to account for that extra depth. It’s a small detail that can make a big difference. 
• Check sizing charts: Manufacturers often give sizing guides or charts. It’s always worth looking at them, as they can save guesswork and help you match the screw length to the materials perfectly. 
• A simple rule of thumb: In general, aim for about two-thirds of the screw to embed in the base material, as you’ll have solid holding power without unnecessary length. 

Mistakes to avoid when cutting screws

• Rushing the cut and overheating the screw. 
• Not securing the screw properly before cutting. 
• Using the wrong cutting tool for the job. 
• Failing to smooth sharp edges after cutting. 

By taking a little extra care, you can make all the difference to both safety and the finished result. 

Learning how to cut screws is a valuable skill that may help you to get out of a tight spot on site or at home. With the right tools and techniques, it’s quick, safe, and gives you the flexibility to work with fixings of all types. 

At ASP Ltd, we stock a wide range of screws, fixings and tools suitable for any project – whether you’re a tradesperson or home DIYer. If you need advice on choosing the right products, our team is always here to help. 

If you’ve ever tried to creep across the landing, without disturbing the house, only to be betrayed by a loud creak, you’re not alone. Squeaky floorboards are a common nuisance, and the wrong screw sizes or types are causing the problem. 

Choosing the right size and type of screws for floorboards is essential for preventing those unwanted creaks, letting you enjoy a stable, quiet floor. 

Using screws that are too short or thin can lead to loose boards that shift with every step, while overly long screws risk damaging pipes or wires underneath. What’s more, the wrong type of screw can cause wood splitting or even failure to hold the board securely. This means you’ll experience persistent squeaks and potentially even structural issues over time. 

In this guide, we’ll look at how choosing the right screws for various flooring types is important. We’ll discuss factors like screw length, diameter, and thread type, giving you the knowledge to make informed choices for your flooring projects. 

Knowing the importance of proper screw selection helps you to avoid common pitfalls and enjoy a sturdy, silent floor. 

Why screw size matters for floorboards 

Structural integrity 

Using the right screw size is essential to maintain the structural integrity of your floors, giving a stable connection between the floorboards and joists. Screws that are too short may not anchor the floorboards securely to the joists, which can result in movement and damage. Screws that are too long will go in too deep, which could impact underlying structures or utilities. 

Noise reduction 

Squeaky floors are usually caused by loose floorboards. When screws aren’t tightened enough or are too small, they can rub against each other or the subfloor, which leads to annoying noises. 

Safety and durability

Loose floorboards can become trip hazards, and over time, the constant movement can cause wear and tear, ultimately leading to costly repairs. 

Protecting joists and boards

Oversized screws can go in too deep, which may damage joists or even pierce through to the other side, which may impact your flooring. Undersized screws are unlikely to hold the floorboards securely, which can result in movement and damage to the boards and joists. 

What size screws for floorboards? A quick table guide 

Floorboard Type	Screw Length	Screw Gauge	Notes
Traditional Timber	50–65mm	#8 or #10	Pre-drill to prevent splitting
Chipboard (18mm)	40–50mm	#8	Use screws with coarse threads
Plywood Subfloor	50–60mm	#8 or #10	Pilot holes recommended
Engineered Wood Floors	45–60mm	#8	Consider underlay & allow for expansion

 

What size screws for 22mm floorboards?

For 22mm thick floorboards, you’ll want screws that are at least 2 to 2.5 times the thickness of the board, so: 

• Recommended screw length: 50-65mm 
• Screw gauge: #8 or #10
• Thread type: Use full-thread or partially threaded screws depending on the material. Coarse thread is recommended for chipboard, while finer thread is recommended for hardwood. 

What size screws for 18mm floorboards?

For 18mm floorboards, here’s a quick guide to choosing the right screws: 

• Screw length: 40-50mm 
• Screw gauge: #8 is ideal
• Thread type: Use coarse-thread screws for fixing chipboard or softwood. If screwing into hardwood, use fine-thread screws. 

Factors that affect screw size choice

1. Floorboard thickness

The thickness of your floorboards should be the first way to determine the right screw length. Use a tape measure to get the exact size. 

A common guideline is to use screws that are 2.5 times the thickness of the floorboard. So, if you have 18mm floorboards, you’ll use a 45mm screw length. This helps to get the right amount of penetration into the joist to secure the hold. 

2. Joist material and spacing

The material and spacing of your joints can have an impact on the screw size you need. Softwood joists, like pine, are more forgiving, and screws go into them easily. Hardwood joists, like oak, are denser, and you’re going to need to pre-drill holes to prevent the wood from splitting. In the UK, floor joists are commonly spaced at 400mm or 600mm centres. The wider the space, longer screws may be needed to get a good anchor to the floorboards. 

3. Room type and load considerations 

The function of the room and furniture in the room can also impact your screw size choice. In rooms where there is heavy foot traffic, you’ll need longer and sturdier screws to deal with the constant movement. 

In rooms where heavy items are, screws that give a stronger hold are best to help reduce the chance of floorboard movement or squeaking over time. 

Lofts aren’t typically used as much as the ground floors in your home. However, if you convert it into living space, you’ll have to consider the load in there, and adjusting the screw size might be best to give you stability. 

Recommended screw types for floorboards 

Wood screws (Standard)

Best for: Softwood and traditional timber boards

Standard wood screws are a reliable choice for securing softwood and traditional timber floorboards. With a sharp point and coarse threads, they go into the wood easily and have a strong hold. 

Flooring screws

Specially designed for floorboards 

Flooring screws, such as tongue and groove screws, have been specially engineered for floorboard installations. They’re mostly designed with self-drilling tips and countersinking heads, which means there’s no need to pre-drill, and you get a flush finish. 

Twinthread vs Single thread

Advantages for gripping subfloors and preventing movement 

Twinthread screws: These screws have two threads that run along the shank, which gives you a quicker insertion and strong hold. They’re ideal for use on hardwood, softwood and jobs where you need robust fastening. 

Single-thread screws: This has a single continuous thread, which gives them good drip in softwoods. They’re ideally used where strong pull-out resistance is needed. 

Self-drilling vs pilot holes 

Self-drilling screws: These screws come with a drill-like top, that means they cut their own pilot hole as they’re driven in. They are best used in softwoods and other materials where pre-drilling isn’t needed. 

Pilot holes: For hardwoods and brittle materials. It’s best to pre-drill pilot holes to prevent splitting and to get the most accurate placement. 

Should you nail or screw floorboards?

The classic debate: nails or screws? If you’re laying floorboards and wondering which method will give you the best results, let’s break it down. 

Nails vs Screws: What’s the Difference?

Feature	Nails	Screws
Holding Power	Moderate (can loosen over time)	Strong, resists movement and squeaks
Ease of Installation	Faster with a nail gun or a hammer	Slower but more precise
Removability	Harder to remove without damage	Easy to back out if needed
Movement Resistance	Less secure—boards may shift or creak	Excellent for keeping boards tight

Why screws are a smarter choice for most floorboards 

If you want long-term peace and quiet from your floor, then screws are the better options: 

• They hold tight: Screws will grip the joists firmly and are less likely to loosen over time. 
• They stop squeaks: Since they reduce movement, screws are the better choice to prevent creaky spots in your home. 
• They’re easy to adjust: If you’ve put them in slightly off, it’s much easier to unscrew and reposition them. 

When nails still make sense 

That said, nails aren’t obsolete just yet. There are still a few times that they’re the better choice: 

• Restoration work: Matching the fixing method used in period properties may require traditional nails, especially when aesthetics are a priority. 
• Secret nailing: For tongue-and-groove boards, nails can be driven at an angle through the tongue and hidden, giving you a neat finish. 
• Speed: If time is time and you’re using a nail gun, you’ll get the job done quickly.

Tips for installing floorboards with screws 

Getting the right screws is only half the battle, how you install them matters too. Here are some tips for installing floorboards with screws. 

Pre-drilling: Small step, big payoff 

Driving screws straight into hardwood can cause boards to split, especially if you do it near the edges or ends. 

When pre-drilling, use a drill bit that’s just slightly smaller than your screw’s core to create the pilot holes. This helps to guide the screw, reduces splitting, and makes for a cleaner job, especially when you’re working with dense woods like oak and beech. 

Countersinking: For a flush finish 

Catching your foot on a raised screwhead is not ideal. If you use a countersink bit, you’ll create a slight recess in the board, which lets the screwhead sit just below the surface. You can then fill this and get a clean-looking finish. 

Glue and screw?

Screws give you an excellent grip for floorboards, but sometimes a high-quality flooring adhesive (like MS polymer or PU-based glue) will give you an added extra bond strength. This can be useful in high-traffic areas of the home. 

Remember to use the glue sparingly; a little goes a long way. Plus, you’ll need to allow for slight seasonal movement. 

Spacing and pattern 

A few key rules to follow: 

• Screws every 200-300mm along the length of the board 
• Minimum 15mm from edges to avoid split 
• Always screw into joists, not just the subfloor 
• For narrow boards, 1 screw per joist is fine. 
• For wider boards, go for 2 screws spaced evenly across the width
• Alternate your screw position slightly on each board to reduce the chance of cracking joists in the same line

Common mistakes to avoid 

Small missteps can lead to costly and time-consuming problems when you’re installing floorboards. Avoid these common mistakes to get the job right the first time. 

Using the wrong size screws 

We’ve given you the guide; now use it. If not: 

Too short? Your boards will lift and squeak because they aren’t gripping the joist beneath them. 

Too long? You could pierce through the joist and hit things like pipes or wires. 

Over-tightening and splitting the boards 

Cranking that screws it until it squeals might feel satisfying, but it’s likely to lead to cracked timber. If you do this, screws might pull too hard on the fibres of the wood. Stop tightening once the screw head is just below the surface. 

Misaligned joists mean wobbly boards 

Don’t just guess where the joists are, if you miss them, you won’t be adding strength to the floorboards and over time, they’ll shift or lift. It’s best to use a joist finder or lift a small section to mark joists properly before you start. 

Ignoring wood movement 

Wood moves. It breathes with the seasons, expanding in humid months and shrinking in dry ones. If you install your boards too tightly with no gap between the boards or walls, you might get buckling, squeaking or gaps. 

It’s best to leave a 2-3mm expansion gap between the boards and at least 10mm from walls. Spacers will help you here; remember to remove them when done. 

Done right, floorboards stay quiet for years

Choosing the right size and type of screw isn’t just a nice-to-have; it’s the difference between a floor that stays solid and silent, and one that groans with every step. 

Whether you’re working with softwood, hardwood, or tongue-and-groove, there’s a screw that’s made for the job. 

Enter ASP Ltd, we’ve got a wide range of flooring screws that are available in the sizes you actually need. We stock solid, reliable screws you can count on to keep your floorboards where they should be – quiet and firm. 

Nothing ruins the beauty of a crafted piece of woodwork like visible screws. Bookshelves, kitchen cabinets or garden benches you’ve created should look polished, not pieced together with visible fixings.

Exposed screws don’t just look unsightly; they can snag clothes, collect grime, and disrupt the seamless look you were aiming for.

That’s where clever screw-hiding techniques come in. In this guide, we’ll share six simple but powerful ways to elevate your woodwork by making screws disappear seamlessly.

Whether you’re a beginner with a drill or a seasoned maker chasing that showroom finish, we’ve got you covered.

Why hide screws in wood? 

• Aesthetic appeal: Concealed screws contribute to a sleek, uninterrupted piece.
• Safety: Hidden screws eliminate the risk of snags or injuries, especially in furniture that’s in high-traffic areas.
• Durability: By hiding screws, you’re protecting them from environmental elements, which may increase the longevity of your build.
• Professionalism: A screw-free surface reflects meticulous attention to detail.

Tools and materials you’ll need 

Essential tools: 

• Screwdriver or drill 
• Wood filler 
• Wooden dowels 
• Wood plugs 

Optional tools for the best results:

• Countersink bits
• Plug cutters 
• Sanding tools

At ASP Ltd, we have a wide range of screws and fixings that are suitable for various woodworking jobs. Our products are designed to meet the demands of both professional craftsmen and DIY enthusiasts, providing you with quality and reliability on every project.

Techniques: How to hide screws in wood 

1. Wood filler 

Wood filler can be used over countersunk screws to create a smooth surface that can be painted or stained. 

Step-by-step guide: 

1. Countersink the screw slightly beneath the wood surface. 
2. Apply wood filler over the screw head using a putty knife. 
3. Allow the filler to dry completely. 
4. Sand the area until it’s flush with the surrounding wood. 
5. Paint or stain to match the finish. 

Best for: Painted furniture or projects where matching the wood grain isn’t critical. 

2. Wood plug

Wood plugs are inserted into holes above screw heads, blending seamlessly with the surrounding wood.

Step-by-step guide: 

1. Drill a hole over the screw head using a countersink bit. 
2. Insert the screw and tighten securely. 
3. Apply wood glue into the hole. 
4. Insert a wood plug, ensuring it matches the wood type and grain direction. 
5. Once dry, trim and sand the plug so it is flush with the surface. 

Best for: Stained or natural wood projects where grain matching is essential. 

3. Wooden dowels 

Wooden dowels are used to fill holes above screw heads, giving a decorative touch. 

Step-by-step guide: 

1. Drill a hole over the screw head, slightly deeper than the screw. 
2. Insert the screw and tighten. 
3. Apply wood glue into the hole. 
4. Insert a dowel, ensuring it fits snugly. 
5. Once the glue dries, trim and sand the dowel so it is flush. 

Best for: Rustic finishes or decorative joinery. 

4. Pocket hole joinery 

Pocket holes are angled holes drilled into one board to allow screws to connect to another board, hiding the screws on the inside. These are great for those who need strength and want a tidy finish. A pocket hole jig is essential to complete this job effectively. 

Step-by-step guide: 

1. Use a pocket hole jig to drill angled holes. 
2. Apply wood glue to the joint. 
3. Insert screws into the pocket holes to join the boards. 

Best for: Cabinetry and furniture where internal screws are ideal. 

5. Conceal behind trim 

Screws are hidden behind trim pieces or decorative elements. This method helps to discreetly cover screw heads, and you can add a stylish touch to your project. 

Step-by-step guide: 

1. Install screws as needed for structural support. 
2. Measure and cut trim pieces to cover the screw areas. 
3. Attach the trim using adhesive or finishing nails. 

Best for: Feature walls, built-ins, or visible furniture parts. 

6. Plug and button kits 

Pre-finished plugs or buttons are used to cover screw heads. They’re available in a variety of wood types and finishes, so you can match the look of your project without having to cut your own plugs. 

Step-by-step guide: 

1. Drill your pilot and countersink holes as normal. 
2. Insert your screw. 
3. Add a dab of wood glue into the hole. 
4. Press in the pre-finished plug or button. 
5. Gently tap it flush with a mallet, if needed. 
6. Let it dry, give it a light sand, and finish with paint or stain if necessary. 

Best for: DIYers who need speed and simplicity. 

Choosing the right method for your project 

With a pick of six ways to hide screws in wood, how do you pick the best one for your project? Matching the method to your job is vital, so here’s a handy table to help you decide which option is best for you. 

Method	Best for	Finish type	Skill level
Wood filler	Painted furniture	Paint	Beginner
Wood plug	Natural wood finishes, visible joints	Stain	Intermediate
Pocket holes	Cabinets, hidden joints, frames	Paint or stain	Intermediate
Wooden dowels	Rustic finishes, decorative joinery	Stain	Advanced
Trim pieces	Feature walls, built-ins, statement furniture	Any	Beginner-friendly
Plug/button kits	Quick repairs, flat-pack upgrades	Paint or stain	Beginner-friendly

 

Pro tip: When in doubt, start with filler. It’s the most forgiving and easily corrected if things don’t go to plan. 

If you need a job done quickly, wood filler again is the best option for plug kits. These options are both versatile and easy to use and don’t need a full kit of tools to get the job done. 

How to finish your woodwork like a pro

You’ve hidden the screws; great job. By spending time on these finishing touches, you can create a flawless look that elevates the final result. 

Sand like a pro 

• Always start with a coarser grit to level the surface, then move to finer grits to achieve a smooth surface. 
• When you’re blending wood plugs or filler, sand in the direction of the grain for a seamless look. 

Stain and paint matching 

• Test your stain or paint on an offcut or hidden area; this helps to make sure that you get the perfect colour blend. 
• For plugs and dowels, choose a wood type that closely matches the surrounding timber for a cohesive look. 

Seal the deal

• Don’t skip the top coat. A durable finish will help to make sure it looks its best, and it lasts well too. 
• For outdoor projects, using weather-resistant sealants provides the best protection. 

Avoid these common screw-hiding mistakes

Even if you’re used to working with wood regularly, there are still small mistakes that can be made. Here are the pitfalls you want to avoid: 

• Not countersinking deep enough: This will leave your screw heads poking up, which will only ruin the sleek surface you’re after. 
• Using mismatched wood/plugs: A light pine lus in a dark walnut board? That contrast isn’t going to blend. Choose wisely to get an unnoticeable finish. 
• Overfilling or undersanding filler: If you use too much filler, you’ll get bumps on your surface. If you don’t sand enough, there will be obvious patches. It’s all about finding the right balance between the two. 
• Visible grain mismatch: Grain direction matters—especially with plugs or dowels. Get it aligned properly to give it a seamless look. 

Hiding screws in wood is more than just giving your surface a smooth look; it’s a detail that shows off your attention to detail, care, and quality.

Taking the time to master these techniques will give you a truly professional finish. No matter which method you choose, the key is to take your time and select the right materials for the job. With the right tools and a bit of patience, you’ll get a flawless finish every time.

ASP is your go-to partner for premium screws and fixings. We’ve got what you need to give you a beautiful finish, no matter your skill level. Explore our range today and take your projects from great to standout.

Frequent Asked Questions: Hiding Screws in Wood 

Can I stain over wood filler?

Yes, but you’ll need a specific wood filler labelled “stainable.” Standard fillers can leave a patchy look as they don’t absorb stain evenly. Test it on an offcut or a hidden area first to colour match.

What’s the easiest way to hide screws for beginners? 

Using wood filler or a plug/button kit is ideal for beginners. You don’t need lots of specialist equipment, and they’re quickly carried out. 

Do I need to use a countersink bit?

It’s not essential, but a countersink bit will help your screws sit just below the surface which makes it easier to cover them with filler, plugs, or dowels. It can also help prevent the wood from splitting. 

How do I make wood plugs match the grain? 

Choose a plug that’s made from the same wood and align the grain direction with the surrounding surface. To get the best match, you’re best cutting your own plugs from offcuts using a plug cutter. 

What’s the difference between a wood plug and a dowel? 

A wood plus is a short, flat-topped piece that is used to cover a countersunk screw hole. A dowel is a longer, cylindrical rod; they’re mainly used structurally or decoratively. 

Will these methods work on outdoor furniture? 

Yes, but you’ll need to use tools that are specifically designed for exterior use, such as screws, fillers, adhesives and sealants that can withstand the weather. It’s best to finish with an outdoor top coat or wood preservative, too. 

How do I fix a mistake when hiding screws? 

If your filler cracks or doesn’t blend, sand it back and reapply in thin layers. If a plug or dowel doesn’t match, remove it gently, if possible, and try again with a better-matching piece of wood and glue. Patience is key here to make sure you get it right.  

Whether you’re tackling a construction or DIY project, a big debate can be over which fastener to go for. Use the wrong one, and you could end up with weak joints, damaged materials, or a structure that doesn’t hold up over time. 

That’s why we’re here to help. 

Whether you’re building a deck, putting furniture together, or installing plasterboard, knowing when to use nails or screws will save you time, money, and headaches. 

In this guide, we break down the key differences between screws and nails and look at which is the best option for certain projects. 

What are screws? 

Screws are fasteners with threads designed to hold materials together. Screws can be used precisely and give strong holding power. They come in a variety of head shapes, such as flat, round, or Phillips. Plus, you can buy them in a selection of different materials depending on the job you have. 

What are nails?

Nails are slender metal shafts with pointed tips and flattened heads. They are used to join materials by being driven into them, usually with a hammer or nail gun. You’ll usually find them made of steel, but they are available in aluminium and brass. 

Key difference between screws and nails 

While both nails and screws are used to fasten materials, their design means they have different strengths. 

Materials and construction

Both fasteners are typically made from steel, brass, and galvanised options, all of which offer strength and resistance. 

Galvanised coatings help against corrosion, making them ideal for use outdoors. Stainless steel protects against rust, and brass designs are used for aesthetic purposes. 

Holding power and strength 

Screws have exceptional gripping strength, which is down to their threaded design. This makes them the ideal choice for jobs where components could be pulled apart. 

The strength of nails and their design means they’re better able to withstand forces that might cause materials to slide past each other. 

Ease of use 

When it comes to ease of use, nails often have the upper hand. You can easily drive them into materials using a hammer or a nail gun. Ideal if you’ve got a big project and a tight time frame. 

Screws take a little longer, especially when you’re using a manual screwdriver. 

Flexibility and removal

A big advantage of screws is the fact that they can be removed without causing damage. This means that you can make changes to disassemble the items if needed. 

Nails, on the other hand, are harder to extract, and you’ll likely damage them and the item when removing them. This is more likely to happen if they’ve been in place for a while, too. 

Best uses for screws 

Screws are ideal for: 

• Woodwork and cabinetry: Their strong holding power ensures joints remain tight over time. 
• Decking: Screws will securely attach deck boards, preventing them from loosening. 
• Drywall installation: Screws minimise the risk of popping, giving a firm hold. 
• Fixtures and hardware: Their precision makes them perfect for mounting brackets, hinges, and other hardware. 

Best uses for nails

Nails are best suited for: 

• Framing and structural work: They have flexibility, which means they can move without breaking. 
• Sheathing and subflooring: Nails will hold in place while wood naturally expands and contracts. 
• Exterior siding and roofing: Nails are great for these, as they’re quickly applied and can withstand the forces of wind and weather. 
• Finish carpentry: Thin nails are ideal for use to avoid the splitting of delicate trims and moulding. 

Nails or screws for fence 

When building a fence, the choice between nails or screws depends on the priorities. Nails are less expensive and can be quickly installed, ideal for bigger projects. However, screws give a stronger and more durable hold, reducing the chance of the boards loosening over time.

Get a balance between speed and longevity by using nails for the main structure and then screws to attach the fence boards. 

Nails or screws for framing 

Nails are best for framing construction, as they’re flexible and can withstand strong forces. They will bend when under pressure without snapping, which is crucial for structural applications. 

What’s more, nails can be quickly driven with a nail gun, an efficient choice for large-scale projects. 

Screws may give tensile strength, but they’re more brittle and can shear off under heavy loads, which makes them less suitable for framing. 

Screws or nails for floorboards

To secure floorboards, screws are typically the better choice over nails. They give a tighter hold. This means they’re less likely to loosen over time, and it minimises the chance of squeaking. Screws also give you the ability to easily remove and replace the boards if needed. 

It is possible to use nails for floorboards, but they may come loose as the wood naturally moves, which could result in gaps and noise. 

Screws or nails for stud wall

When constructing stud walls, nails are the better option because they can handle strong forces and are flexible. They allow for slight movements without the structural integrity being compromised. 

However, screws can be used, especially in situations where additional holding power is needed or when you’re working in tight spaces where you can’t hammer. In these cases, use screws that are designed for structural applications for safety and durability. 

Nails or screws for plasterboard

If you’re attaching plasterboard (drywall), screws are typically preferred. This is because they give a stronger hold and reduce the chance of the board pulling away from the studs over time. Screws are less likely to pop back out too, which would cause issues with the surface of the wall. 

Nails can be used for plasterboard, but they’re more likely to loosen, especially if there are fluctuations in temperature and humidity. 

Nails or screws for hanging pictures

The choice between nails and screws for hanging pictures depends on the weight of the item and the wall material. If you have a lightweight frame, nails should be sufficient. 

Heavier pieces will require screws with wall anchors to give better support and reduce the chance of the picture falling. 

You should also consider the type of wall you’re putting the picture on. Plaster walls will likely need specialised anchors to provide a secure hold. 

Pros and Cons of Screws vs Nails 

Screws 

Pros	Cons
Excellent hold power	More time-consuming to install
Easier to remove and adjust	Typically more expensive
Less likely to cause wood to split	Can be brittle under heavy forces

 

Nails 

Pros	Cons
Faster to install, especially with a nail gun	Less holding strength over time
More cost-effective in large projects	Harder to remove without damaging materials
Offer flexibility under stress	Can cause wood to split if not used correctly

 

Expert recommendations: Which should you choose? 

The decision of using nails or screws comes down to the requirements of your project. For structural jobs where you need flexibility and strength, nails are the standout choice. 

For tasks when you need strong holding power and precision, like cabinetry and decking, screws are the frontrunner here. 

Knowing the pros and cons of each fastener will help you make the right choice for your project. 

At ASP, we specialise in high-quality screws that are designed to keep your projects secure for the long haul. Explore our range today and get the right screws for the job. 

Wood screws can be used for everything, from assembling wooden furniture to securing wall panels and decking. They’re versatile, efficient, and durable.

But using wood screws with little care and improper use can lead to disasters happening, ruining all of your hard work.

To help you avoid this outcome, we’ve created a short guide of the top 6 mistakes to avoid when using wood screws. With ASP, your future projects will live up to the test of time.

1. Selecting the Incorrect Screw Type

The first and foremost common mistake is selecting the wrong screw type (don’t worry, it happens to the best of us).

Depending on the type of wood you’re using and the environment you’re working in, different screws are needed. For softwood, such as pine, screws with a coarser thread are essential to grip the less dense material effectively. For hardwood, like oak or mahogany, screws with finer threads help to prevent splitting.

If you’re completing structural woodwork, opt for durable wood screws instead of drywall screws, as these are prone to snapping under heavy loads. For outdoor applications, invest in screws with a weather-resistant coating, such as galvanised or stainless steel screws. This will prevent rust and corrosion.

2. Using Screws of Inappropriate Length

When it comes to choosing the right wood screw for your project, length matters.

Selecting the wrong length can lead to poor joint integrity, an untidy appearance, and potential safety hazards, especially in load-bearing applications.

Screws that are too short will fail to penetrate the wood deep enough to secure a tight hold. This will lead to screws becoming loose after a short period. Short screws are also more likely to come out under stress or movement when subjected to shifting loads.

The problem with long screws, when they aren’t needed, is the exposed tip. This leads to safety hazards and ruins the visual harmony of a surface, making it look unappealing. Long screws can also cause excessive splitting, damaging the wood, and they can cause screw heads to become stripped.

To avoid this, choose a screw that will penetrate the material by about two-thirds of its length.

3. Neglecting to Pre-Drill Pilot Holes

Pilot holes are key to achieving a clean finish when installing wood screws. This helps to prevent wood splitting, especially when placing screws near edges or ends, and results in a cleaner finish.

If you forget to drill pilot holes, you will damage the wood and weaken the joint, affecting the durability of your installation.

To do this, measure the distance needed for the screws with a tape measure and use a drill to create a pilot hole with a depth slightly shorter than the screw’s full length.

For softwoods, use a drill bit that is about 70% of the screw diameter and 80% of the screw diameter for hardwoods. This will prevent the screw from protruding out of the other side.

4. Over-Tightening Screws

While screws require a good amount of tightening to ensure a secure fit, over-tightening can lead to the screw becoming damaged.

This includes stripping the screw head, making it difficult to tighten or remove without special tools, ultimately causing you to spend more time and money fixing it. Over-tightening can also cause damage to the screw thread, resulting in a loose fit.

Not only does this affect the screw itself, but it can distort the wood surface, especially when working with softwood, MDF, or plywood. To avoid this, use a screwdriver or a drill with torque control to insert the screw until it’s flush with the surface.

5. Misaligning Screws During Installation

Proper screw alignment is essential to creating a secure hold in your material, as this distributes pressure evenly, leading to a professional-looking installation.

Misaligning screws has the opposite effect, creating an uneven surface and weak joints. This can warp the material and make the surface appear messy, especially in wooden furniture that is visible to guests.

Screws that are driven in at an angle won’t engage with the second material fully, leading to a faulty installation. To avoid this, be sure to take your time, making accurate measurements for spacing and applying even pressure when drilling.

6. Ignoring Wood Grain Direction

The direction of the wood grain plays a large role when making sure wood screws are installed correctly and appear neat.

Ignoring the grain can lead to split and weakened joints, with many people placing screws too close to the edge of the wood. Failing to countersink the screw properly can also lead to the top fibres of the wood becoming crushed.

Instead, insert your screws at least two diameters away from the edge and examine the length of the board to determine the direction of the grain. Drive your screws in line with the grain for maximum strength.

Pre-drilling pilot holes and using screws with coarse threads will also enhance grip and prevent splitting.

Choose ASP For Your Wood Screws

At ASP, we understand what it takes to achieve a clean, professional, and long-lasting finish when working with wood.

Whether you’re working on a large-scale construction project or a DIY project, our wood screws are designed to meet your every need. Our selection includes screws designed for both indoor and outdoor use and a variety of lengths and finishes.

Browse our collection today and secure the right fastening solutions for your project with our range of screws and fixings.

When screwing into drywall, it’s important to choose the right screw to prevent damage to the surface.

But with so many options and techniques to consider, where do you begin? Today, ASP will walk you through the best practices and screws for working with drywall.

Whether you’re a professional or a DIY expert, the right techniques can make the difference between a long-lasting installation or a flimsy structure. So, let’s dive in and make every fix count!

Selecting the Appropriate Screws

Drywall, also known as plasterboard, is often used to construct walls and ceilings. This material requires specific screws designed to pierce the material and offer the best hold for a durable structure.

Here’s a simple guide to choosing the best screws for your drywall application:

Screw Type

1. Coarse-thread drywall Screws: With wider threads offering superior gripping power, these are best for fixing plasterboard to wood studs. This includes timber-framed walls and ceilings.
2. Self-drilling screws: With a sharp point that can drill through steel, these are best for fixing drywall onto metal without pre-drilling.
3. Fine-thread drywall screws: These screws are commonly used to fix plasterboard to metal studs as the narrower threads easily cut into the metal without causing damage.
4. Collated drywall screws: Collocated screws are preloaded in strips and are used with a screw gun. This is a quick method for high-volume installations, perfect for large projects.

Choosing the Right Screw Length

To ensure a sturdy and secure connection between the framework and plasterboard, you must choose the right length screw for the application.

As a general guideline, the screw must penetrate at least 25 mm into the stud. For a secure fit, the screw needs to penetrate the surface by around an inch.

Choose screws that are 32 mm in length for a 9.5 mm plasterboard and 38 mm long for a 12.5 mm plasterboard.

Head Design

By selecting the right head design, you can enjoy a smooth finish, accurate depth, and minimal damage to the plasterboard’s surface.

Understanding when to use each one will help you achieve the best results for your application.

• Bugle head screws: These are the go-to choice for drywall, as the head is slightly tapered, allowing the screw to sit flush with the surface. Bugle heads minimise the need for sanding and filling and prevent tearing the drywall’s surface.
• Flathead screws: While not commonly used for drywall, these have a flat surface that provides more coverage. They distribute pressure evenly across drywall.
• Panhead screws: Often used to attach things to the surface of drywall as they provide a clean finish.
• Self-drilling screws: Equipped with a flat or bugle head, these screws include a built-in drill point. This creates a quick installation, as pre-drilling isn’t needed.
• Countersunk screw heads: Designed to sit fully recessed in the drywall, making it easier to tape, sand, and mud. 

Coatings for Corrosion Resistance

When it comes to selecting the right screw for your application, special coatings can add extra durability and resistance, especially for moisture-prone areas.

The common types of coatings and their uses include:

• Black phosphate: This standard finish for drywall screws offers basic resistance against rust, ideal for indoor applications. This includes living rooms, offices, and bedrooms.
• Zinc: Forming a protective barrier against corrosion, zinc is ideal for outdoor applications as it can withstand moderate levels of moisture. This is also ideal for bathrooms and kitchens.
• Stainless steel: If your applications require exceptional durability and corrosion resistance, then stainless steel is the perfect choice. This can handle high levels of moisture and doesn’t require additional coatings.

Proper Screw Placement and Spacing

When installing screws in drywall, the spacing depends on the type of application and how much stability is required.

You can find general guidelines for each installation below:

1. Walls

• The screws should be spaced along the vertical studs by around 300 mm (12 inches).
• Reduce spacing to 200mm (8 inches) for added support in areas more prone to stress, such as windows, doors, and external corners.
• For 1.2 meters (4-foot) wide plasterboard, use a minimum of four screws across the width of each stud.

2. Ceilings

• To avoid sagging, space screws closer together, at 230 mm (9 inches).
• To guarantee a solid grip and reduce movement, place more screws around the plasterboard’s edges.

3. Seams and Edges

• Screws should be spaced 150mm (6 inches) apart along the drywall’s margins.
• For a smooth, continuous surface that is simple to tape and mud, make sure the screws are equally placed along the seam.

Techniques for a Flawless Finish

When installing drywall screws, the wrong technique can lead to small mistakes, affecting the overall quality of the installation.

To avoid uneven surfaces, screw pops, or damage to the drywall, follow these techniques below:

1. Locate the studs with a stud finder and mark a straight line along the edge of each stud with a chalk line.
2. Pre-cut the drywall, leaving a small gap of 2-3 cm between each panel to allow for expansion.
3. To insert the screws, use a drywall screw gun or cordless drill.
4. Position panels on walls using a drywall lift, or work with a partner to hold and secure each board.
5. Always start at the centre of the drywall panel, attaching screws as you work outward.
6. When driving the screws, leave the head to sit slightly below the drywall surface. Once the screw head is flush with or slightly recessed into the plasterboard, stop driving the screw.
7. To keep the screws straight, drive them perpendicular to the surface, preventing damage.
8. Stagger the seams of your drywall to enhance strength, especially in multi-layer installations.

Choose ASP for Drywall Screws

At ASP, we’re here for all of your building needs. Our wide range of high-quality screws is perfect for both professional and DIY installations.

By following these guidelines when choosing drywall screws from our collection, you can guarantee a seamless, quick, and beautiful finish for any project.

Browse our screws and fixings today to find the right match for your project.

Whether you’re an advanced builder or a frequent DIYer, you’re bound to run into problems that are tricky to navigate now and then.

A common issue that you will run into is stripped screws. As these screws have no head, they can’t be removed with a traditional screwdriver, so we have to get more creative.

But don’t worry! While the process will chip away a few more minutes from your task, there are still plenty of ways to remove a screw with no head. Stick with us to discover how.

What Causes Stripped Screws?

Stripped screws are caused by improper installation methods, such as using the wrong size screwdriver, turning the screw at an angle, or using low-quality tools.

This causes the slots in the screw head to wear out, making it difficult for the screwdriver to grip the screw. Over-tightening the screw or working too fast can also cause damage to the head.

Tips for Removing a Stripped Screw from Different Materials

When removing a stripped screw, the material plays an important part. This affects the type of method you take and the amount of care needed when completing the task.

Metal

• Avoid excessive force: Apply slow, steady pressure to avoid further stripping of the screw, especially bonded or rusted screws.
• Heat application: Apply controlled heat to the screw to expand the surrounding material. This can loosen the screw enough to allow removal.

Plastic

• Heat carefully: Apply only low heat (like a hair dryer) to prevent excessive melting, and avoid heat guns, as they can warp the plastic.
• Avoid forceful methods: Avoid high-torque tools or aggressive methods, as plastic is more prone to cracking.

Wood

• Go easy with drilling: apply light pressure to the surface and use a low-speed drilling setting to avoid damaging the wood fibres.

10 Quick Methods for Removing a Stripped Screw

While stripped screws make the removal process more complicated, all hope isn’t lost! There are plenty of easy ways to remove a screw with no head.

1. Pliers for Extra Grip

Pliers are a straightforward way to grip and twist out exposed screw heads.

• How it works: Pliers allow you to manually turn the screw with increased grip and control.
• Steps: Clamp the pliers around the screw head as tightly as possible, and turn the screw counter-clockwise while applying firm pressure.
• Tools:
  • Locking or needle-nose pliers.

2. Rubber Band Method

This method is great for screws with mild stripping, where you still have a bit of grip left in the screw head.

• How it works: Place a rubber band over the screw head to create extra friction between the screwdriver and the screw.
• Steps: To try to loosen the screw, place a wide rubber band flat across it, press the screwdriver into the rubber band, and turn slowly to loosen.
• Tools:
  • Rubber band
  • A screwdriver that fits the screw head size

3. Screw Extractor Kit

This specialised tool is designed specifically for removing stripped screws. Screw extractor kits are effective for metal and wood surfaces.

• How it works: Reverse-threaded bits “bite” into the stripped screw, allowing you to turn it out.
• Steps: Drill a small pilot hole in the screw, insert the extractor, and turn counterclockwise to loosen the screw.
• Tools:
  • Screw extractor kit
  • Drill with drill bits suitable for metal or wood
  • Safety goggles

4. Drill a New Groove in the Screw Head

This procedure is perfect when you need a fresh slot to turn a completely stripped screwhead. However, use caution when using this technique to prevent harm to nearby materials.

• How it works: Drilling a new slot creates a fresh grip point for a flathead screwdriver.
• Steps: Make a notch with a metal-cutting disc or small saw blade, then insert a flathead screwdriver and turn it out.
• Tools:
  • Drill or rotary tool with a cutting disc
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Safety goggles

5. Flathead Screwdriver and Hammer Technique

If the screwhead is worn but still has some metal intact, use this method. This creates a new groove in the screw for leverage.

• How it works: You can get traction by tapping a flathead screwdriver into the screwhead to create a new slot.
• Steps: Place the flathead screwdriver on the screw head, tap it lightly with a hammer, and then use it to turn the screw out.
• Tools:

• • Flathead screwdriver
  • Hammer
  • Safety goggles

6. Left-Handed Drill Bit

Left-handed drill bits can help loosen the screw as it drills. These are specifically designed to rotate in the opposite direction of a standard drill bit.

• How it works: The left-handed drill bit digs into the screw head while rotating counterclockwise, loosening the screw in the process.
• Steps: Start with a small pilot hole, then switch to a left-handed drill bit, applying slow and steady pressure until the screw loosens.
• Tools:
  • Left-handed drill bit set
  • Drill
  • Safety goggles

7. Superglue Method

A dab of superglue can provide the necessary grip to turn screws with minimal stripping.

• How it works: The glue bonds the screwdriver tip to the screw, offering additional grip.
• Steps: Apply a small amount of superglue to the screwdriver tip, press it into the screwhead, allow it to set, and turn slowly to remove the screw.
• Tools:
  • Superglue
  • Screwdriver

8. Use a Larger Screwdriver

Switching to a larger screwdriver can provide a better fit and extra grip in the remaining grooves of the stripped screw.

• How it works: A larger driver head can fill in the gaps left by the stripping, giving better control.
• Steps: To remove, select a larger screwdriver, insert it securely into the screwhead, exert constant pressure, and turn slowly.
• Tools:
  • Larger screwdriver (Phillips or flathead, depending on the screw type)

9. Drill Out the Screw

The screw can be completely removed as a last option by drilling it out.

This reduces its diameter until it falls out; however, it can harm the material surrounding the screw, so complete it with caution.

• How it works: The drilling motion breaks down the head until it is released.
• Steps: Select a drill bit that’s slightly smaller than the screw shaft and drill slowly. Pause occasionally to check if the screw is loose.
• Tools:
  • Drill with suitable drill bits
  • Safety goggles
  • Optional: Tweezers to remove any debris

10. Knife or Utility Blade for Leverage

This method allows you to pry gently to create a turning point if you’re working on plastic or softwood.

• How it works: A thin knife or utility blade slides beneath the screwhead, providing leverage to lift it.
• Steps: Carefully insert the knife blade under the screw head, apply gentle upward pressure, and twist to loosen.
• Tools:
  • Utility knife or thin blade

Browse ASP for All of Your Screw Needs

With the right tools and a can-do attitude, removing screws with no heads is made simple.

At ASP, we want to ensure that all of your projects are completed with ease and efficiency. That’s why we offer a large range of screws and fixings, from wood screws to drywall screws, to buy in bulk.